The feel of the Torovenado
By: Cristiana Guevara-Mena
Several weeks ago, I did a field
study on the Torovenado of Masaya, Nicaragua. I took a cell phone camera
to take pictures, a voice recorder to interview citizens of Masaya – in this
text they will be called "masayas" – and ten consent forms to conduct
interviews in an authorized manner. Arriving in Masaya, I joined the colorful
and noisy festival as an active observer to perform this study. It is valuable
to mention that this research is conducted by someone like me who is not a
native of that location, but of the capital, without completely ignoring the
popular festival of Torovenado.
For those who are unfamiliar with
this, the Torovenado in Spanish means “Bulldeer”, but it is not a rare
animal with the head of bull and the body of a deer, or vice versa, which goes
wandering around the streets of Masaya. No. It's a very traditional carnival
masquerade of that area where people express social, political, and even
religious problems, and personify them with masks, colorful costumes, and
street displays of comedy. These so called "scenes", personalize the
Monimbó indigenous traditions – the most indigenous, civically organized, and
representative neighborhood of the indigenous communities in Masaya – as
well as the most painful realities of the current time satirizing the most
abusive and humiliating act of power towards the people.
To the sound of the tuba, drums, and
trumpets of the “chicheros” – a street band – I entered the carnival and
took photos as it went. I saw, from one scene to the next: A priest surrounded
by headless ghosts. Click. The city hall of Masaya, carrying the dengue
death in a tank. Click. The railway, with rails included, that Doña Violeta stole from us. Click. A black
sash called "Law 779," with a white skull painted on it, where men
who did not sufficiently satisfy their wives were decapitated. Click. Several Rosario Murillo multimillionaires, representing the new homeland’s gaudy,
blinding, nauseating colors. Click. Camila Ortega, the daughter of the
presidential couple. Click. Cardinal Miguel Obando with a sign that says
"Peace and Reconciliation”. Click. A wooden wagon in very bad condition,
referring to the employment of the future "Christian, socialist, and
solidarity" generations. Click.
I kept moving between people and
dancing to the chicheros, and I saw Arnoldo Alemán and Doña Violeta
kissing and embracing among masks. Over here, presidents! Click. A cardboard
banner saying: "Take note of the voice of the people". Click. The
anonymous fallen in the revolution. Click. A Monimbó old Indian Chief. Click.
The “Gossipnews” of channel 10. Click. The sisters of "charity" from
whom Mr. Montealegre stole their "alms" of half a million dollars.
Smile! Click. A black coffin of the Nicaraguan Institute of Social Security
(INSS), carried by the dead, with a sign that says "your money is
INSSecure, your health is INSSecure, your old age is INSSecure”. Click. At the
end of all these pictures, and many more, we see, of course, the celebrated San
Jeronimo of Masaya. Click.
In the analysis of ten recorded
interviews, I discovered that the masayas are people who proudly protect their
ancestral traditions and culture. You can feel in their passionate, and
sometimes choppy, conversation, the hatred and dissatisfaction they feel
towards the government. I only found one case of acceptance and closeness. It
shows that they feel hurt and violated by the offending lies of their political
and social representatives. They feel that the Torovenado is the only
permitted public space to challenge the power and say between the lines
"we realize what you are doing, and we rub it in your face so that you don’t
believe we’re stupid" without being attacked by the police or the army.
They really are people who are aware of their indigenous identity and are
willing to keep it anyway.
This carnival symbolizes the origin
of our Nicaraguan cultural mix which we are very proud of. This resistance to
the abuses of power is what characterizes the vast majority of the masayas.
You can perceive in them that they are not afraid to challenge whoever is in
power. They are sincere, direct, and enraged people, who historically have been
the spark that ignites social uprisings. At the same time, there are an
increasing number of citizens that are affected by the unfair and arbitrary
changes of the insatiable power of the government. In the end, this street
masquerade of social protest, is more effective than the poetry of poets,
philosophers’ philosophies, and religious prayers. Let’s take note on that.